Cannons and Guns of Saraighat

While I walked along the bank of the river Brahmaputra on another day, it reminded back to many great towns and cities, which are built on the riverside. It’s no little surprise, where London is proud to have the long and winding history of the Thames River. When it comes to our own Brahmaputra, can it rise to the occasion? Surely the riverine city Guwahati can aspire, while rejuvenating it with streams from Bharalu to Bahini and Bashistha that runs through it, by the retreat of the Brahmaputra.

The Epics and the Puranas witnessed the ancient city Pragjyotishpura (ancient name of Guwahati) that dates back to thousands of years. The city has mythological references for Bhagadatta and Narakasura of Ramayana and Mahabharat times. It was the capital city during Varman and Pala dynasties during 10th-11th century AD. However it lost its glory during 12th-15th century until Ahom reached to Gauhati (now Guwahati) in the latter half of the 17th century.

The Ahom established the Borphukan of Lower Assam for administration and military responsibilities from a bungalow on the riverside which will go down in history of the Battle of Saraighat that thwarted a drawn-out attempt by the mighty Mughals and successfully resisted their expansion in the north east from the Ahom. The Ahom ruled Assam for nearly 600 years (1228–1826) facing invasion from the Mughals for 17 times. The first invasion started in 1667 by Mir Jumla of Bengal under Emperor Aurangzeb. There were several conflicts from border outpost to Gauhati with the Ahom capital Gargaon.
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The landscape of Guwahati has been surrounded by the hills and the Red River. Ahom’s military strategy came from the Nilachal, Itakhuli and Ashwakranta Hills of the North bank. Lachit Borphukan fought with Ram Singh of Mughal from the base camp Itakhuli, where the river witnessed the courage and velour that regarded as one of the fiercest naval battles ever fought. Commander of Aurangzeb’s Army Ram Singh wrote about Assamese soldier “they are expert in rowing boats, shooting arrows, digging trenches and in wielding guns and cannons. I haven’t seen such specimens of versatility in any other part of India. Glory to the King; Glory to the Commander” It changed the course of battle pushing back Mughals forever after the decisive win at the Battle of Saraighat in 1671. The last Battle of Itakhuli made Ahom to establish reign up to Manas River until the Moamoria Rebellion to Burmese Invasion.

After the Treaty of Yandabo, the British formally took over Guwahati in 1824. The cannons and the guns of the Battle of Saraighat were scattered at the foot of the tilla. It’s a small hillock with direct access to the river. British took great care for the views and vistas of the site and set up administration. The Scottish type offices were built up in the neighbouring Judges Field including the Deputy Commissioners’ Bungalow in 1850. The Lord Northbrook Gate was erected in 1874 for the honour of the visiting Viceroy at Sukreswar Ghat.

The British-era DC Bungalow at the Barphukanar Tilla (Barphukan’s Hillock) was declared as the residence of the DC Kamrup at post-independence. Later the erstwhile bungalow had been abandoned for several years. Recently the Government has decided to transform it into a Heritage Centre with the spirit and legacy of the Brahmaputra. The mesmeric view of the wooden bungalow has now been tastefully renovated and converted into the Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Centre. It’s a splendid sight that refreshes any visitors while overlooking the river to the Saraighat. The memorial at that site is a boon to traveller. It houses the cultural heritage of Assam and war files to experience war with wisdom. The heritage center is a full of rare and precious treasures.